Care & materials
Everything on this site is made from a material that behaves in a particular way. This page explains how to look after each one, so a piece you buy this year still looks right in five.
Solid wood
Oak, ash and acacia are living materials — they move slightly with humidity and they darken with light. Both are normal. Dust with a dry cloth, wipe spills straight away, and keep pieces out of direct sun and away from a radiator. Once or twice a year, a thin coat of clear furniture oil rubbed in with the grain will bring back an oiled finish. Never use an all-purpose spray cleaner: the solvent lifts the oil and leaves a pale patch.
Stone — marble and travertine
Porous by nature and reactive to acid. Lemon, wine, coffee and vinegar will etch a mark if they sit. Use a coaster, blot rather than wipe, and clean with warm water and a drop of pH-neutral soap. A stone sealer applied annually is worth the twenty minutes. Small variations in vein and colour are part of the material, not a defect — no two slabs are cut the same.
Wool and natural fibre rugs
New wool sheds for the first two to four weeks. That is loose fibre from the loom working its way out, not the rug coming apart. Vacuum without a beater bar, twice a week at first, then weekly. Rotate the rug twice a year so it wears evenly and does not fade on one side. Blot spills, never rub. Jute and sisal do not like water — clean them dry and keep them out of a bathroom.
Linen and cotton
Machine wash cool on a gentle cycle with a mild detergent, no bleach or fabric softener. Tumble low or line dry in shade. Linen creases — that is the fibre, and it is the reason people buy it. It also gets softer with every wash, so the first one is the roughest it will ever feel. Wash covers separately from inserts.
Ceramic and stoneware
Our glazed stoneware is dishwasher and microwave safe unless the product page says otherwise. Reactive and speckled glazes vary piece to piece by design. Avoid a sudden temperature change — a hot dish into cold water is what cracks stoneware, not ordinary use.
Enamelled cast iron
Wash by hand with warm soapy water and a non-abrasive sponge. Let it cool before it goes near the tap. Do not slide it across a glass hob. The interior will pick up faint utensil marks over the years; they do not affect how it cooks.
Metal finishes
Brass is left unlacquered on most of our lighting and hardware, which means it patinas — it warms and darkens with handling. If you prefer it bright, a brass polish twice a year restores it. Powder-coated steel and matte black finishes need nothing more than a damp cloth; skip the abrasive pad, which leaves fine scratches that catch the light.
Glass
Hand wash ribbed and mouth-blown glass. Dishwasher heat and detergent will dull the surface over time and mouth-blown pieces have small bubbles and slight asymmetry from the process, which is how you tell them from moulded glass.
Lighting
Every lamp ships with the bulb type and maximum wattage printed on the socket label. Staying at or below it matters — over-wattage is what yellows a shade and shortens a fitting's life. Wipe a linen or paper shade with a dry brush, never a wet cloth. Rechargeable lamps hold their battery best if you let them run down occasionally rather than sitting permanently on the charger.
Outdoor pieces
Teak and acacia left outside will silver within a season. If you want the original honey tone, oil it in spring and again in late summer. Terracotta is frost-sensitive — bring pots in or empty them before a hard freeze, because water in the clay expands and splits the wall. Solar lights need four to six hours of direct light on the panel to run a full evening.
Still unsure
Write to support@byhavn-co.com with the product and what happened. If something arrived marked or damaged in transit, send a photo and we replace it — no return needed.